On Selecting Freshwater Pearls

When I design pearl jewellery, the first decision isn’t the gold - it’s the pearl.

Freshwater pearls vary enormously. Some appear flat under light, others hold depth and luminosity. Some are perfectly round but lifeless; others carry subtle variation that gives them character. Selecting the right pearl determines how the finished piece will sit, move and last.

What Makes a Good Freshwater Pearl?

At the bench, I handle each pearl individually before it ever reaches a setting. I’m looking for lustre first - the way light reflects softly but clearly across the surface. A pearl should not look chalky or overly uniform. It should feel natural, with depth rather than surface shine.

Surface quality matters, but perfection is not the goal. A pearl with minor organic variation often carries more life than one that appears flawless. Freshwater pearls are formed naturally, and I prefer those that retain that sense of origin rather than appearing overly processed or artificial.

Lustre, Light and Depth

Lustre is what gives a pearl presence. Under natural light, a well-formed pearl reflects softly, not sharply. It should glow rather than glare. Lower-grade pearls can appear dull or flat once set in gold, losing dimension against the metal.

When I select pearls for my handmade jewellery in Dublin, I consider how the stone will respond to light once mounted. Gold changes how a pearl reads. The warmth of 9ct or 18ct gold can enhance tone - but only if the pearl has depth to begin with.

How Proportion Affects Balance in Gold Jewellery

Proportion matters just as much as surface.

A pearl that is too small disappears against gold; too large and it unsettles the balance of the piece. Jewellery must sit comfortably, whether it is a pair of pearl drop earrings or a single charm worn daily.

Because I work in solid 9ct and 18ct gold, weight and scale must work together. The gold should support the pearl, not overwhelm it. Thickness, bail size and setting depth all influence how the finished piece hangs and moves.

Each pearl used in my handmade jewellery is chosen with that balance in mind. No two are identical - and that variation is intentional. It is part of what distinguishes handmade pearl jewellery from mass-produced designs sorted by machine and uniformity.

From Selection to Setting

Once selected, each pearl is set carefully by hand. Pearls require a different approach to diamonds or sapphires. Their organic structure means they must be handled with precision and respect at the bench.

Selection is not separate from design - it is the beginning of it. The right pearl determines the proportions of the gold, the scale of the setting and the overall feel of the finished piece.

Caring for Handmade Pearl Jewellery

Because pearls are organic gemstones, they require different care than harder stones. I set each pearl securely, but I always advise gentle cleaning and careful storage to preserve the surface over time.

Pearls should not be soaked or exposed to harsh chemicals. After wearing, a soft cloth is usually sufficient. You can read more about cleaning gold and pearl jewellery here.

The Finished Piece

The pearls you see in my pearl jewellery collection are selected this way — individually, by hand, before they are ever set in gold.

Pearl jewellery is often treated as delicate or sentimental. In my workshop, it is treated with precision. Selection is the first design decision — and the one that determines whether a piece will hold its place for years.

View the pearl jewellery collection here.